This lush region, cradle of the Charolais breed, was also home to Saint Hugues. The most famous of Cluny's abbots was actually born in 1024 in the castle of Semur-en-Brionnais, a charming village listed among the most beautiful in France. Below, you will find a (nonexhaustive) list of the lesser known gems among the thirty or so churches and chapels of the Brionnais area, which can be discovered by following the "Romanesque church circuit" signs leaving from Semur-en-Brionnais. This route's boundaries, which form the southern loop of the "Romanesque routes in South Burgundy" are, to the north, Paray-le-Monial, mentioned in our chapter "Key sites", and to the south, Charlieu, which is located outside the Burgundy region in the Loire department.

Semur-en-Brionnais

Saint Hilaire church, built in the 12th century, features all the architectural characteristics of the Clunisian Romanesque style. Its portal offers an outstanding sculpted décor, illustrated by a Christ in Glory and the legend of Saint Hilaire. The chevet, surrounded by several chapels and overlooked by a stunning octagonal tower, is particularly elegant.

Anzy-le-Duc

Overlooked by the three floors of its stunning octagonal bell-tower, Anzy-le-Duc church is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful examples of Romanesque art in the Brionnais region, both in terms of its architecture and painted and sculpted décor. The church is home to remarkable mural paintings (see the chapter "Masterpieces of Romanesque painting"), and the sculptures on its portal and capitals are among the first examples of Romanesque sculpture which would subsequently flourish in Cluny.

Montceaux-l'Etoile

Compared to those of Semur-en-Brionnais and Anzy-le-Duc, Montceaux-l'Etoile church can, at first glance, seem very plain. The most interesting aspect of this edifice does not lie in its architecture, but in its portal, often considered one of the most complete works Romanesque sculpture in the Brionnais region. Sculpted from a single block, the tympanum and lintel illustrate the theme of the Ascension, with Christ in a mandorla supported by two angels above fourteen characters depicted with an enormous degree of realism.

Varenne-l'Arconce

Overlooked Whereas many churches in the Brionnais area were built from a calcareous type of stone with golden tones, the church of Varenne-l'Arconce was built at the end of the 11th century from sandstone, a heavier stone that gives the edifice a squatter look. The influence of Cluny is visible mainly in the broken barrel vault system of the nave and choir. The south portal is decorated with a sculpture depicting the Paschal Lamb.

Bois-Sainte-Marie

This church, whose construction work began in the 11th century and was completed in the first quarter of the 12th century, was remarkably restored in the 19th century. The oldest section is the ambulatory, whose vaults descend close to the choir on curious ensembles made up of four small columns. The extremely elevated nave is made up of broken barrel vaults and decorated with various sculpted capitals. An imposing square bell-tower overlooks the church's chevet and transept.

Châteauneuf

The elegant church of Saint Paul, built on a terrace overlooking the Le Sornin valley, constitutes one of the last examples of Romanesque art in the Brionnais area. The nave, as is often the case in south Burgundy, is made up of broken barrel vaults and the aisles are covered with groin vaults. Outside, it is above all the elegant tripartite façade and the square bell-tower that catches the attention, along with a small door on the south side whose sculpted lintel depicts the twelve apostles.

Iguerande

In an area overlooking the val de Loire, Saint André's church, built at the end of the 11th century, looks fairly squat, albeit well-proportioned, from the outside. The nave is made up of perfectly rounded barrel vaults and the aisles are covered by groin vaults. The intersection of the transept is topped with a dome inside and a square tower outside. The sculpted décor of this church is remarkable, particularly in the design of its capitals.

Saint-Julien-de-Jonzy

Overlooked This church, built during the second half of the 12th century, had its nave rebuilt in the 19th century. Of the original building, the square tower and a magnificent portal whose tympanum and lintel are sculpted from the same block of sandstone, remain. The lintel depicts the Last Supper, while the tympanum features an image of Christ resurrected surrounded by two angels. Judging by its inspiration and the quality of its craftsmanship, we are led to think that this portal was produced by the same workshop as the one in Charlieu.


For more detailed information about the Brionnais area and south Burgundy's Romanesque heritage, please contact the following organisation:
Centre international d'études des patrimoines culturels en Charolais-Brionnais (C.E.P.)
Le Montsac - F-71800-St-Christophe-en-Brionnais
Tel : + 33 (0)3 85 25 90 29 - contact.cep@charolais-brionnais.net
http://cep.charolais-brionnais.net

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